My new Vermouth obsession

I don't know what it is lately, but with the introduction of Jeff Morganthalers' Sangaree cocktail at Clyde, and the rise of the availability of good vermouth, my palate is heading in the direction of lighter, more wine driven drinks.  With the amount of European Vermouth's' that have arrived in the Oregon Market in the last two years, a whole world of vermouth has opened up for me.  We've seen really deep Vermouth's' like Punt e Mes which are rich herbal and bitter, to light Blanc Vermouth's, that have little to no color, but glow with sweet herbs, and mineral.  It seems none of these can come close to the sweet vermouth Carpano Antica Formula, which is full of rich caramel flavors, baking spices and a subtle herbs.  Lately, I've just drinking alot of vermouth on the rocks.   I needed to understand how I had gone this long as a bartender, and not jumped headlong into one of the worlds oldest drinks.
Traditionaly vermouth had been cut into two categories.  French Vermouth aka Dry Vermouth.  And Italian Vermouth aka Sweet Vermouth.  You see the division lines less these days with French Vermouth's such as Dolin releasing lines of a Dry, Blanc, and Rouge.  and Italian Vermouth's like Cinzano releasing a Rosso, Blanc, and Extra Dry.  The flavors of these products very slightly, and until you have spent some time discovering these products for your self, I feel like there is a huge part of the bartending experience you are missing out on. 

One of my most recent concoctions was created with a real heavy hand of Vermouth.  I reach for Dolin Blanc these days like bartenders reached for vodka in the late 90's.  I was inspired by my love for mixing with cognac, and my new found adoration for Vermouth. 

The French Connection
2oz Dolin Blanc
3/4 oz Cognac
1/2 Cointreau
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
Stir and serve with a lemon peel.

The lemon is a nice juxtaposition and is a tip of the hat to one of my all time favorite cocktails, the side car.  Which blends, cognac, cointreau and fresh lemon juice.

"Is that good?"

One of the most confusing things I get asked on a weekly basis is people looking at the menu and pointing and asking..."Is that good?" 

Being a father of two and a loving husband, I've developed a sense of patience, and am still developing my ability to suppress my sarcastic whit and bite my tongue when opportunities flash me.  But this is one of those things that make the hair on the back of my neck stand up. 

First of all, as professionals, we in the "non-corporate" restaurant business have control over what's on the menu.  So somewhere along the line, someone thought that the item in question is not only good, but delicious.  We are in the business of creating delicious.  The truth of the mater is, delicious doesn't come without trial and error, so most items you see on a menu has been through various stages before menus go to print. 

Second, I don't know automatically what you like.  Right now, I think Romazzatti Amaro is delicious.  But if I had a 21 year old drinker walk into the bar and ask for a delicious drink, I would not recommend it.  All items will be relative based on what your tastes are.  Know what you like before you ask the question "is that good?" 

Third, you may want to re-think that phrase into "What is this like?"  Totally understandable and reasonable question.  It happens to me all the time, when I walk into a restaurant, and it's like reading greek, I am happy to answer a lot of questions. 

Now I'll be the first to admit that I often know more about booze and wine than I do about food.  Clyde Common is constantly challenging my food knowledge, and there are always things to learn about opportunity to grow culinary knowledge.

So to answer your question "Is that good?"  My answer is "What do you like?".

Dolin Blanc is the new St. Germain.

There has been a huge blow up of St. Germain (elderflower liqueur) in the last two years.  It's a bright flavorful spirit that mixes nicely with nearly everything you use it with.  It can be intensely sweet when consumed by itself or if you use to much of it.  But a little bit will add an element to a citrusy cocktail the makes you go..."ohh...what's that flavor...it's....pleasant!".  I'll be honest, I love the stuff for it's versatility, and nearly every cocktail you make with it does something magical to the female palate.  Women love the stuff, and one of my philosophies is that if you make good drinks for women....they will come visit your bar.  And if women come visit your bar...so do men.  Let's face it, St. Germain is good for business.  These days it's a must on nearly every cocktail list in the Northwest.

One of my long time signature cocktails made with St. Germain.

Queen Bee (still on the menu @ Carlyle)
3/4 Vodka (try subbing, Gin, Rye or Bourbon they all work)
3/4 St. Germain
3/4 Lemon
1/4 Clover Honey Syrup
Shake and serve up
Top with 1 1/2 oz Dry Champagne

It's crisp, light, and has all these ingredients that women look at and say...oohhh...I want that.  It's a fabulous cocktail and have been guilty of drinking a few of myself.

Recently, the Dolin Vermouth de Chambery has released a line of Rouge, Blanc, and Dry that has quickly become the masculine equivalent of St. Germain.  The Rouge, is light, sweet and not too pungent or herbal.  Hints of orange and lemon aspects.  Has a nice weight to it, and just enough herb and bitter to balance off a lighter bourbon or rye.  Heavier Bourbons will swallow the rouge whole, and you'll loose the lighter notes that are the big pluses for this product.

I haven't had a chance to taste the Dry as of yet, but the Blanc is AMAZING!!!  The Blanc is a more elegant version of a Bianco Vermouth.  Essentially a sweet vermouth that hasn't been aged or fortified with the same herbs and spices that give the Rouge it's color.  It's light, and citrusy, with the most elegant clean finish of mineral.  Just drinking it by itself, over ice is a fantastic experience.  With a little orange, and lemon zest a couple cubes of ice and you would be able to pair this spirit with everything from a spring salad, to a nice piece of Alaskan Salmon.

It's also extremely mixable.  I find myself reaching for it in the same manor that a year ago I was reaching for St. Germain.  My most recent love and combination has been a staff inspired drink called "Mago de la Muerte".  In English this translates to "Magician of Death".

The Mago
2 oz Silver Tequilla
3/4 Dolin Blanc
1/4 Cointreau
1/4 Maraska Maraschino
1 of Regans orange bitters.

Stir and serve in a martini Shell with a squeeze of orange zest.

The Mago was named after Michael Staley a server/host at Clyde Common Restaurant.  Who has a fabulous story about a dishwasher that though his name was "Mago",which means magician in spanish,  for years.  One day after work he asked me for a tequila drink with no acid.  I was inspired and created the Mago.  There is a slight smokey mineral quality to the silver tequila that fuses effortlessly to the Dolin Blanc.  Dolin is really the legs of this drink.  It adds length and smoothness to the tequila that you normally don't find in tequila.  The maraschino blended with the coinreau in small parts are complementary flavors that adds a touch of sweetness.  The thing that excites me about this drink is the color.  When the coinreau is stirred and water fuses to it, it well ever so lightly Louche.  Which is an old term for what happens to Absinthe when you add water to it and it's color changes from green to milky green.  The same thing happens to the coinreau, it ever so slightly changes color.  So when serving the drink, you'll notice a slight mysterious cloudiness that adds to the cocktail.

Keep your eye on cocktail lists around the city.  As long as Dolin Blanc is available in Oregon, you will continue to see it on cocktails lists.  It's elegance, versatility, and affordability will make it a mainstay behind Northwest bars for quite some time.